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Cruzer

**Golf Talk** thread

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Most likely, on the downswing your body stops turning. But even when the body stops, the clubhead doesn't. It keeps going, the face closes, and a duck hook ensues. So make sure you get your chest facing the target..

see that's what in talking about...easy thought to try out. Thank you sir.

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So hard to say w/out seeing you swing.

 

Usual culprits to start with:

 

* ball position

* grip

* too whippy shafts

 

After that I'd look at swing path and then closed clubface at address.

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* too whimpy

 

nailed it

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Why do I duck hook everything? Any quick thoughts, grip, stance remedies I can try ?

Ive been having problems with this lately too. Im just too quick in the transition I think. The hands are getting there before the body does. I make it a point to try and pause at the top of the backswing, that helps

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Been struggling lately with ball striking. Fats, thins hitting the ball all over the face. No consistency. Really sucks.

 

Until mid round yesterday.

 

With the sun at my back the shadow of my head was on the ball. During the takeaway I noticed a significant slide or sway to the right as the shadow moved off the ball.

 

been working on trying to get a better turn and somehow it morphed into a sway that makes it nearly impossible to get back to the ball

 

Few quick adjustments and immediate results.

 

42/37-79

 

The shadow knows

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Been struggling lately with ball striking. Fats, thins hitting the ball all over the face. No consistency. Really sucks.

 

Until mid round yesterday.

 

With the sun at my back the shadow of my head was on the ball. During the takeaway I noticed a significant slide or sway to the right as the shadow moved off the ball.

 

been working on trying to get a better turn and somehow it morphed into a sway that makes it nearly impossible to get back to the ball

 

Few quick adjustments and immediate results.

 

42/37-79

 

The shadow knows

I've been trying to cure a similar problem. It started when I started doing the 'belly button' drill to facilitate a one piece takeaway.

 

If done incorrectly you ingrain starting everything back at the same time so your swing is flatter than it should be. The hips turn too quick with it and some head movement might be involved.

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I've just played two of the worst rounds of my life back to back. I did something to my neck on the right side, and it's ruined something in my swing/turn. After the first round, the club had a couple of masseuses in, and I endured 15 minutes of her digging her elbow into the side of my neck and top of shoulder to loosen it up. Friggin painful; she said it was as tight as it could possibly be.

 

Next day, it was just extremely sore/bruised. It affected every part of my game except putting. As a result, my partner and I are teeing off @ 7:36 tomorrow, 6th from the bottom - and we'd been in the money in both years prior.

 

Yuck. The only shot at cash is day money tomorrow, but this neck thing doesn't appear to be improving. Some kind of pinched nerve; when I press down on it if feels like I'm being electrocuted.

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Took the whole weekend off.. In fact, haven't touched a club in about 10 days.. The wrist is feeling better - am getting golf horny again with our Open this week.

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To any Srixon lovers like myself, might want to stop by your local PGA Superstore.......... Premium Z Star and Z Star XVs for $20 a doz. :thumbsup:

 

http://www.pgatoursuperstore.com/landingpage/srixon_fd_balls.jsp

 

 

I bought a dozen based on what you fockers recommended. Maybe they are better when it is warm out, but I played with them on Cape Cod last month and they were meh.

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I really like the XV's... Although I played the TM Project a's and they were similar but felt a little mushier. Nice ball as well. Everyone i play with uses the Chrome Soft soccer balls now.

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I really like the XV's... Although I played the TM Project a's and they were similar but felt a little mushier. Nice ball as well. Everyone i play with uses the Chrome Soft soccer balls now.

 

I have been finding a ton of those recently. I give them to my son as I can't see myself using them.

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I've been golfing since 1996, and I've never done any research or technical thought in terms of putting. I'm a straight back-straight through putter, and it's just been 22 years of hand eye coordination. The thought of opening and closing the putter seems strange to me, so I decided to read up on it about 2 weeks ago just to gain a bit of knowledge. In doing so, I came across Steve Stricker's tips for straight back-straight through putters, and I decided to try his left hand grip (uncocked left wrist, which lines the forearms and shaft up) to limit the opening and closing of the face.

 

Gotta say.....It's only been 500 putts in my living room and 1 round of golf, but it's a revelation to me. The line just feels automatic, whereas before it was a lot of concentration on a steady stroke. We will see how the stats bear out, but feel like I became a much more solid putter instantly with just one adjustment.

 

I shot an 80 at Riverchase in Coppell on Saturday. My irons let me down, as on fifteen par 3's and pa 4s, I only hit 3 greens. I still had 32 putts, but I don't remember any misses inside of 5 feet. Honestly, I felt like I played horrible, so it's nice to be able to shoot an 80 like that.

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Paul Casey with a pretty bad choke job yesterday

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I've played 18 holes 4 out of the last 5 days at 3 different courses, that's A LOT of swings :D

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I've played 18 holes 4 out of the last 5 days at 3 different courses, that's A LOT of swings :D

 

I'm playing 18 Thursday, scramble friday and 18 saturday morning. 3 different courses.

 

That's a lot of beers. :cheers:

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I'm playing 18 Thursday, scramble friday and 18 saturday morning. 3 different courses.

 

That's a lot of beers. :cheers:

 

:thumbsup:

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Since you guys are all single digit handicappers, I need some advice.

 

I bought some Taylormade M2 (2016) irons online from a reputable place. It is legit TM and not a knock off. I got a complete set of steel shaft (4-AW)for $399 which was much better than I had seen elsewhere.

 

They showed up yesterday, but they are graphite shafts (regular flex). Those are more expensive, but will they be too whippy for me. I am a mid-high handicap (15), but I am just turning 50, so maybe graphite might not be bad. I had graphite about 10 years ago and switched to steel for more consistency.

 

Would you keep them or return to get steel shafts?

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Since you guys are all single digit handicappers, I need some advice.

 

I bought some Taylormade M2 (2016) irons online from a reputable place. It is legit TM and not a knock off. I got a complete set of steel shaft (4-AW)for $399 which was much better than I had seen elsewhere.

 

They showed up yesterday, but they are graphite shafts (regular flex). Those are more expensive, but will they be too whippy for me. I am a mid-high handicap (15), but I am just turning 50, so maybe graphite might not be bad. I had graphite about 10 years ago and switched to steel for more consistency.

 

Would you keep them or return to get steel shafts?

 

What is your current swing speed? Do you struggle with distance or accuracy with your irons?

 

If your swing speed is decent and/or you struggle with accuracy, definitely get the steel ones.

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What is your current swing speed? Do you struggle with distance or accuracy with your irons?

 

If your swing speed is decent and/or you struggle with accuracy, definitely get the steel ones.

Those are sort of different questions - for me. :)

 

I am not a big hitter, but I am not short either. Probably 220-230 off the tee. Hit my 7 iron 150.

 

Accuracy is ok for a mid-high capper, in that I look more strokes around the green. I am not consistent as I dont play a ton.

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Those are sort of different questions - for me. :)

 

I am not a big hitter, but I am not short either. Probably 220-230 off the tee. Hit my 7 iron 150.

 

Accuracy is ok for a mid-high capper, in that I look more strokes around the green. I am not consistent as I dont play a ton.

 

Well, graphite may have changed but the old stiff graphite was like regular flex steel. If that still holds true, a regular flex graphite would indeed be too whippy given your numbers.

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Since you guys are all single digit handicappers, I need some advice.

 

I bought some Taylormade M2 (2016) irons online from a reputable place. It is legit TM and not a knock off. I got a complete set of steel shaft (4-AW)for $399 which was much better than I had seen elsewhere.

 

They showed up yesterday, but they are graphite shafts (regular flex). Those are more expensive, but will they be too whippy for me. I am a mid-high handicap (15), but I am just turning 50, so maybe graphite might not be bad. I had graphite about 10 years ago and switched to steel for more consistency.

 

Would you keep them or return to get steel shafts?

 

regular graphite should be more whippy and obviously lighter than the regular steel would have been. I think you will find yourself gaining some distance with the graphite shafts but losing some accuracy if they don't really fit your swing. If you have a really smooth, consistent swing, they may work well for you. but you run the risk of spraying the ball each direction if you swing harder/faster. The stock grahite shafts in TM irons shouldnt be anything special and the difference in price probably isn't more than $100. I would return them for what you really wanted. Getting a $100 freebie isn't going to be worth how it will fock with your head while youre playing, always wondering if you should have returned them for the steel.

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Since you guys are all single digit handicappers, I need some advice.

 

I bought some Taylormade M2 (2016) irons online from a reputable place. It is legit TM and not a knock off. I got a complete set of steel shaft (4-AW)for $399 which was much better than I had seen elsewhere.

 

They showed up yesterday, but they are graphite shafts (regular flex). Those are more expensive, but will they be too whippy for me. I am a mid-high handicap (15), but I am just turning 50, so maybe graphite might not be bad. I had graphite about 10 years ago and switched to steel for more consistency.

 

Would you keep them or return to get steel shafts?

Shaft flexes are really all about feel. There is no industry standard for flex, so an Aldila XS may be the same as UST S. Shaft weight has much more to do with your swing than flex. If you hit the clubs well, keep the graphite and be happy. If not, pull the graphites and sell on ebay.

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Shaft flexes are really all about feel. There is no industry standard for flex, so an Aldila XS may be the same as UST S. Shaft weight has much more to do with your swing than flex. If you hit the clubs well, keep the graphite and be happy. If not, pull the graphites and sell on ebay.

 

while true, he is talking about stock TM graphite versus stock TM steel. It's going to be an easy comparison and he wont need to worry about the varying properties among different shaft brands.

 

i still say if he is used to having steel in his irons, going to a lighter, more whippy cheap graphite shaft is probably not going to be a good idea.

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Horror story

 

-3 after 8. Trip on nine, double on 10, finished with an 80.

 

Complete mental meltdown.

 

I've had those too. Recently I've managed to NOT react too badly when hitting a bad shot after focking up a tee shot yet still making birdie or par.

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Had a great 3 days of golfing with my buddy that was visiting.

 

shot an 85 out of nowhere Saturday @ Bradford Country Club (some of the boys must know this course)

 

40/45

 

I have no length, I struggle bigly on long courses

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Had a great 3 days of golfing with my buddy that was visiting.

 

shot an 85 out of nowhere Saturday @ Bradford Country Club (some of the boys must know this course)

 

40/45

 

I have no length, I struggle bigly on long courses

that's a good score for that course. Play it a lot. Demands iron accuracy.

 

Got my first hole in one there on the little 6th last fall.

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that's a good score for that course. Play it a lot. Demands iron accuracy.

 

Got my first hole in one there on the little 6th last fall.

 

Was maybe my 12th time playing it. 1st time I ever made the green on 12 in 3.

 

4 hybrid, 5 hybrid, 7 iron

 

I will never get a hole in one

 

I saw a guy playing behind us nearly miss a hole in one on the 6th as we were driving away. That's the hole to get one if you ever will

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regular graphite should be more whippy and obviously lighter than the regular steel would have been. I think you will find yourself gaining some distance with the graphite shafts but losing some accuracy if they don't really fit your swing. If you have a really smooth, consistent swing, they may work well for you. but you run the risk of spraying the ball each direction if you swing harder/faster. The stock grahite shafts in TM irons shouldnt be anything special and the difference in price probably isn't more than $100. I would return them for what you really wanted. Getting a $100 freebie isn't going to be worth how it will fock with your head while youre playing, always wondering if you should have returned them for the steel.

 

This is good advice for me. They are being sent back. :thumbsup:

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When dealing with TM, keep in mind they also have (or had) the Uniflex shaft option available in their irons....I know, bcoz I play them. They are basically a 'firm' that fits the tweener swing. I have had some pretty solid success with them, but my next set I think I would like to go with a little heavier shaft, something in the 105g range.

 

Shafts are all bout how you load the club, now how fast you think you swing. When dealing with driver shafts, I can't stress enuff to pay more attention to the Torque rating and the Bend Point more than the Flex rating.. These factors will have a more direct impact on your strike/ball flight than the actual flex...

 

General rule of thumb:

 

* The lower the Torque number, the stiffer it will play.. Anything in the 2.0 range will play like a board, you better be strong.

* Bend point - it's actually opposite: the higher the bend point, the lower you ball flight will be. If you are looking to launch the ball over the clouds, go with a low bend point.

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When dealing with TM, keep in mind they also have (or had) the Uniflex shaft option available in their irons....I know, bcoz I play them. They are basically a 'firm' that fits the tweener swing. I have had some pretty solid success with them, but my next set I think I would like to go with a little heavier shaft, something in the 105g range.

 

Shafts are all bout how you load the club, now how fast you think you swing. When dealing with driver shafts, I can't stress enuff to pay more attention to the Torque rating and the Bend Point more than the Flex rating.. These factors will have a more direct impact on your strike/ball flight than the actual flex...

 

General rule of thumb:

 

* The lower the Torque number, the stiffer it will play.. Anything in the 2.0 range will play like a board, you better be strong.

* Bend point - it's actually opposite: the higher the bend point, the lower you ball flight will be. If you are looking to launch the ball over the clouds, go with a low bend point.

👍👍👍

 

Shaft weight probably the biggest influence on swing as the shaft is concerned.

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When dealing with TM, keep in mind they also have (or had) the Uniflex shaft option available in their irons....I know, bcoz I play them. They are basically a 'firm' that fits the tweener swing. I have had some pretty solid success with them, but my next set I think I would like to go with a little heavier shaft, something in the 105g range.

 

Shafts are all bout how you load the club, now how fast you think you swing. When dealing with driver shafts, I can't stress enuff to pay more attention to the Torque rating and the Bend Point more than the Flex rating.. These factors will have a more direct impact on your strike/ball flight than the actual flex...

 

General rule of thumb:

 

* The lower the Torque number, the stiffer it will play.. Anything in the 2.0 range will play like a board, you better be strong.

* Bend point - it's actually opposite: the higher the bend point, the lower you ball flight will be. If you are looking to launch the ball over the clouds, go with a low bend point.

 

all great and accurate information.

 

in the case of Pats, I think its really simple though. As I responded to fireballer, his is not really an issue of needed to take into consideration different manufacuteres ideas of stiff, Aldila, UST, Graffaloy, etc...

 

he's talking TM stock steel versus TM stock graphite (which is going to be a cheap graphite shaft anyway).

 

you are correct on the uniflex and my assumption is thats what he was purchasing. Those mid level TM irons (burner, burner 2.0, rocketballz, M2 etc) all generally have that uniflex steel i think.

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