Taylor Made Rescue Dual

[Sho Nuff 720]

it's like buying anything.. in 6 months it will be old news.

 

Thats true as well.

 

Have a Ping G2 that I got quite cheap because everyone wants the G5 now.

 

And I love the G2.

[George Carlin 1]

I think that model was the one I actually intended to get, but somehow ended up with the dual. I don't need the variable weights, as I said above I moved them to undo the built-in draw, I'd have been happy without all of that fuss.

 

Also I got the stiff shaft, because I swing like a man.

 

Happy hitting!

 

I'm anything but a man, I need all the help I can get.

 

 

What do you guys think about this?

 

Callaway Big Bertha Titanium 454 10 Degree Driver

[Patriotsfatboy1 1,432]

I'm anything but a man, I need all the help I can get.

What do you guys think about this?

 

Callaway Big Bertha Titanium 454 10 Degree Driver

 

You need a higher loft. Look for 10.5 or 11 degrees on your driver. Many mid-to-high handicappers make the mistake of using a driver with too little loft. For most people the added loft will give you more distance than a lower loft because of your swing speed

[George Carlin 1]

You need a higher loft. Look for 10.5 or 11 degrees on your driver. Many mid-to-high handicappers make the mistake of using a driver with too little loft. For most people the added loft will give you more distance than a lower loft because of your swing speed

 

 

Gracias.

[parrot 789]

Gracias.

You probably don't need a stiff shaft either.

 

Quote manipulation in 4...3...2...

[George Carlin 1]

You probably don't need a stiff shaft either.

 

Quote manipulation in 4...3...2...

 

 

Shafts matter not to me, I just need something that's not ghetto fab

 

this better? Link

[parrot 789]

Shafts matter not to me, I just need something that's not ghetto fab

Like the higher loft, most average amateurs are better off with regular flex, but stiff has become trendy or something I guess. I've been poking around e-bay for a driver too, thinking maybe a 10.5 R Cleveland Launcher 400.

[jerryskids 6,049]

Shafts matter not to me, I just need something that's not ghetto fab

 

this better? Link

If you want a Callaway, check this out as well:

 

Official Callaway pre-owned site

 

Typically lots of selections from like new to beat up. At least you know what you are getting. I've had good experiences buying stuff there.

[parrot 789]

Shafts matter not to me, I just need something that's not ghetto fab

 

this better? Link

Yeah, I just bid on it.

[George Carlin 1]

Yeah, I just bid on it.

 

 

 

grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

 

 

[parrot 789]

If you want a Callaway, check this out as well:

 

Official Callaway pre-owned site

 

Typically lots of selections from like new to beat up. At least you know what you are getting. I've had good experiences buying stuff there.

 

10.5 R 983 in very good condition for $84. Considering that one.

[Sho Nuff 720]

Like the higher loft, most average amateurs are better off with regular flex, but stiff has become trendy or something I guess. I've been poking around e-bay for a driver too, thinking maybe a 10.5 R Cleveland Launcher 400.

 

I prefer the stiff and hit much better with it...I can control it much more...but lose a little distance.

[Patriotsfatboy1 1,432]

I prefer the stiff and hit much better with it...I can control it much more...but lose a little distance.

 

A stiff shaft provides for something in between a regular graphite shaft and a steel shaft. A stiff shaft essentially give you some of the added "whip" of a graphite shaft without having it so "whippy" so as to have a club face that is out of control. I guess that you could lose some distance in optimal conditions, but you are have a higher likelihood of having a square face at impact resulting in greater distance on most swings.

 

Regular graphite shafts are good for people with slow club head speeds. Stiff shafts are for people with higher club head speeds. I am not speaking about pros as they are in completely different class from an equipment standpoint.

[Cruzer 1,994]

I'm anything but a man, I need all the help I can get.

What do you guys think about this?

 

Callaway Big Bertha Titanium 454 10 Degree Driver

* This is a fantastic driver head. In fact, it's been used by many in big time long driving contests.

 

* Callaway drivers tend to fly just a wee bit higher than their lofts suggest. The center of gravity (generally) is really burried low in most Callaway driver heads - this is greatly what makes them easy to hit.

 

* 10 degrees of loft (for a callaway head) isn't too little, provided you get the right shaft.

 

* The shaft is the single most important part of any club - it's a HUGE deal.

 

* This shaft is way too much shaft for you - and way too much for most as a matter of fact. Even though this shaft has a high/mid bend point, it only has a 3.5 torque rating and is built for swing speeds between 95-105 mph. In simple terms, this thing swings like a broom handle - unless you really load the club strongly, you'll have a real hard time maximizing the properties of this shaft. You will also lose any benefit you would have gained from hitting such a forgiving driver head in the Callaway.

 

* The 350 on the shaft is the tip diameter - is slightly larger than the standard .335 and will also contribute to a wee bit of stiffness in the shaft.

[Sho Nuff 720]

A stiff shaft provides for something in between a regular graphite shaft and a steel shaft. A stiff shaft essentially give you some of the added "whip" of a graphite shaft without having it so "whippy" so as to have a club face that is out of control. I guess that you could lose some distance in optimal conditions, but you are have a higher likelihood of having a square face at impact resulting in greater distance on most swings.

 

Regular graphite shafts are good for people with slow club head speeds. Stiff shafts are for people with higher club head speeds. I am not speaking about pros as they are in completely different class from an equipment standpoint.

 

Agreed...I think the stiff does help from having it so "whippy" as you called it. Plus I go with steel in every other club....

Actually have a steel shafted driver that I was using for a little bit. Still hit it ok...but I seem to hit my 3+ just as far as it....I have a low ball flight anyway so the 3+ is usually about all I need. Heck...my driver is an 11.5degree.

 

* This is a fantastic driver head. In fact, it's been used by many in big time long driving contests.

 

* Callaway drivers tend to fly just a wee bit higher than their lofts suggest. The center of gravity (generally) is really burried low in most Callaway driver heads - this is greatly what makes them easy to hit.

 

* 10 degrees of loft (for a callaway head) isn't too little, provided you get the right shaft.

 

* The shaft is the single most important part of any club - it's a HUGE deal.

 

* This shaft is way too much shaft for you - and way too much for most as a matter of fact. Even though this shaft has a high/mid bend point, it only has a 3.5 torque rating and is built for swing speeds between 95-105 mph. In simple terms, this thing swings like a broom handle - unless you really load the club strongly, you'll have a real hard time maximizing the properties of this shaft. You will also lose any benefit you would have gained from hitting such a forgiving driver head in the Callaway.

 

* The 350 on the shaft is the tip diameter - is slightly larger than the standard .335 and will also contribute to a wee bit of stiffness in the shaft.

 

Yeah...the regular flex NV shafts are stiff enough....

[George Carlin 1]

* This is a fantastic driver head. In fact, it's been used by many in big time long driving contests.

 

* Callaway drivers tend to fly just a wee bit higher than their lofts suggest. The center of gravity (generally) is really burried low in most Callaway driver heads - this is greatly what makes them easy to hit.

 

* 10 degrees of loft (for a callaway head) isn't too little, provided you get the right shaft.

 

* The shaft is the single most important part of any club - it's a HUGE deal.

 

* This shaft is way too much shaft for you - and way too much for most as a matter of fact. Even though this shaft has a high/mid bend point, it only has a 3.5 torque rating and is built for swing speeds between 95-105 mph. In simple terms, this thing swings like a broom handle - unless you really load the club strongly, you'll have a real hard time maximizing the properties of this shaft. You will also lose any benefit you would have gained from hitting such a forgiving driver head in the Callaway.

 

* The 350 on the shaft is the tip diameter - is slightly larger than the standard .335 and will also contribute to a wee bit of stiffness in the shaft.

 

What kind of shaft should I get?

[Cruzer 1,994]

A stiff shaft provides for something in between a regular graphite shaft and a steel shaft. A stiff shaft essentially give you some of the added "whip" of a graphite shaft without having it so "whippy" so as to have a club face that is out of control. I guess that you could lose some distance in optimal conditions, but you are have a higher likelihood of having a square face at impact resulting in greater distance on most swings.

Yes and no - it's actually a little more complexed that this. Even in the "Stiff" catagory there are several variables that make the shaft unique. Such things as kick point, weight, torque and lenght can make one stiff shaft play 20 different ways.

 

What kind of shaft should I get?

There is no way for me (or anybody else) to tell you what kind of shaft to get w/out seeing your swing. And you just can't pick one by swing speed. Nick Price and Bob Tway have about the same swing speed, but they have total opposite tempos and they load the club entirely different.

 

I could offer some suggestions based on a range of variables - but I'd never tell you to buy one without trying them out first.

[Patriotsfatboy1 1,432]

Yes and no - it's actually a little more complexed that this. Even with the "Stiff" catagory there are several variables that make the shaft unique. Such things as kick points, weight, torque and lenght can make one stiff shaft play 20 different ways.

 

I agree. That is why I was speaking about pros/low handicappers being in a completely different realm. That is where you don't look for "off the shelf" clubs (especially drivers) and you go with shafts that cost as much as the rest of the club. That is how you go from a $400 driver up to $800 very easily.

 

I was trying to go with the oversimplified explanation, since we are talking about edjr here.

[George Carlin 1]

Yes and no - it's actually a little more complexed that this. Even with the "Stiff" catagory there are several variables that make the shaft unique. Such things as kick points, weight, torque and lenght can make one stiff shaft play 20 different ways.

There is no way for me (or anybody else) to tell you what kind of shaft to get w/out seeing your swing. And you just can't pick one by swing speed. Nick Price and Bob Tway have about the same swing speed - they have total opposite tempos and they load the clube entirely different.

 

I could offer some suggestions based on a range of variables - but I'd never tell you to buy one without trying them out first.

 

I use a 3/4 swing for everything

 

I agree. That is why I was speaking about pros/low handicappers being in a completely different realm. That is where you don't look for "off the shelf" clubs (especially drivers) and you go with shafts that cost as much as the rest of the club. That is how you go from a $400 driver up to $800 very easily.

 

I was trying to go with the oversimplified explanation, since we are talking about edjr here.

 

[Cruzer 1,994]

I agree. That is why I was speaking about pros/low handicappers being in a completely different realm. That is where you don't look for "off the shelf" clubs (especially drivers) and you go with shafts that cost as much as the rest of the club. That is how you go from a $400 driver up to $800 very easily.

 

I was trying to go with the oversimplified explanation, since we are talking about edjr here.

You certainly could spend $400 for a shaft, least you can these days - but that hasn't always been the case.

 

The True Temper EI70 (green) shaft was widely popular on tour for quite some time. Justin Leonard and DLIII were two of the bigger names who used these in their woods - dliii still uses it i believe. Anyways, they could be had for about $40 back then. I recently put one in my Titleist 904F 3 wood and love it. There was also the Grafalloy ProLite - I'm sure you've seen it, it's a burgandy colored shaft that was also widely popular on tour. This shaft can still be bought at Golfsmith for $50. Just another example would be the Proforce (purple & gold) shaft. Anybody remember the 99' Masters? Nobody had really even seen this shaft until Olazabal used it to win his 2nd green jacket - and needless to say, it took off like a rocket. To this day it's still used by some on tour and it can be had for $30.

 

But I do acree on one thing, hardly anybody who's considered a player uses off the rack/stock shafts.

[parrot 789]

I prefer the stiff and hit much better with it...I can control it much more...but lose a little distance.

I was primarily referring to distance when I said "better off".

[Sho Nuff 720]

You certainly could spend $400 for a shaft, least you can these days - but that hasn't always been the case.

 

The True Temper EI70 (green) shaft was widely popular on tour for quite some time. Justin Leonard and DLIII were two of the bigger names who used these in their woods - dliii still uses it i believe. Anyways, they could be had for about $40 back then. I recently put one in my Titleist 904F 3 wood and love it. There was also the Grafalloy ProLite - I'm sure you've seen it, it's a burgandy colored shaft that was also widely popular on tour. This shaft can still be bought at Golfsmith for $50. Just another example would be the Proforce (purple & gold) shaft. Anybody remember the 99' Masters? Nobody had really even seen this shaft until Olazabal used it to win his 2nd green jacket - and needless to say, it took off like a rocket. To this day it's still used by some on tour and it can be had for $30.

 

But I do acree on one thing, hardly anybody who's considered a player uses off the rack/stock shafts.

 

Love the Blue Grafalloy shaft in my Ping now.

 

Used to love the Sensicore shaft i had in my Great Big Bertha 3 wood.

[Cruzer 1,994]

Love the Blue Grafalloy shaft in my Ping now.

Another great example. This shaft is currently used on tour and it can be had for less than $60.

[Sho Nuff 720]

Another great example. This shaft is currently used on tour and it can be had for less than $60.

 

Tried out several things when I was looking again...different clubs...different shafts....this was about 6 months ago.

 

I quit looking really...went into a Golf Galaxy to get some boxes to ship some clubs I sold. Was wandering through their used section and spotted a pristine G2 with that shaft in it.... Hit it a few times on the simulator to make sure it was still what I wanted. Looked at the price tag...and did a when I saw it was $150

[Cruzer 1,994]

What kind of shaft should I get?

Like I mentioned, no way for anybody to tell you over the phone. But let me ask you a few things to get a general feel:

 

* Ball flight?

* Trajectory?

* Ball speed (if you know it)?

* Swing speed?

* Tempo?

* 7 iron distace carry?

* Normal driver carrry?

 

And how is it you're wanting to hit your driver?

[George Carlin 1]

Like I mentioned, no way for anybody to tell you over the phone. But let me ask you a few things to get a general feel:

 

* Ball flight?

* Trajectory?

* Ball speed (if you know it)?

* Swing speed?

* Tempo?

* 7 iron distace carry?

* Normal driver carrry?

 

And how is it you're wanting to hit your driver?

 

trajectory usually very high, I use the tallest tee you can buy.

Swing speed - I had it measured, it was 88 avg

tempo - slow back swing

7 iron - 150

Normal driver - pathetic 220's - I can almost hit a hybrid as far as my driver

 

I WANT to hit it a little longer, nothing too fancy

[Cruzer 1,994]

I'm a little surprised you carry your 7 iron 150 yards with a driver speed of 88 mph. I'm also a little suprised you hit the ball high (even off a tall tee). Normally, high ball hitters really load the club and snap it down with great force. As the old saying goes - have to hit down to make it go up. Your slow tempo would suggest to me that you're more a low ball/sweeper type. Nonetheless, there's equipment out there to help you get closer to what you desire.

 

For sure I'd suggest looking at a weaker shaft, certainly weaker than the Aldila NV. Properties I'd suggest looking at in a shaft:

 

* 85-95 suggested mph swing speed

* high torque rating

* mid/low bend point

* medium to light weight

 

Some specific shafts you might look at are:

 

* XPX Seven (85-95 mph, stiff, mid kick point, 4.7 torque, 68g, $18) - Do not let the 'stiff' label confuse you, this shaft is pretty soft and very affordable. You should have no problem getting this in the air but, on the downside, you may experience a loose shot dispersion.

* XPC4 (85-95 mph, stiff, low kick point, 5.1 torque, 67g, $18) See above, except this thing will really, really launch the ball in the air. Any wayward shots will be exaggerated here and the ball may tend to balloon too.

 

* Aldila NVS (85-95, stiff, mid, 4.4 torque, 57g, $88) A higher end shaft with similar properties as the first two. This shaft is much more consistent and will definately provide a tighter shot pattern. Will get the ball up but will also be a wee bit lower than the others.

 

* Graphite Design YS-6 (85-95, stiff, mid, 5.0, 69g, $45) Another solid high end shaft that will perform similar to the Aldila but has more mass and a heavier hit. Certainly can feel the club thru out the swing with this one, a property many like in controling their ball flight.

 

These are just a few suggestions - there are many others out there. In looking around, I'd definately stay in the 80-95 mph range, go no lower than 4.4 in torque and for sure stay away from anything with a high kick point.

[George Carlin 1]

I'm a little surprised you carry your 7 iron 150 yards with a driver speed of 88 mph. I'm also a little suprised you hit the ball high (even off a tall tee). Normally, high ball hitters really load the club and snap it down with great force. As the old saying goes - have to hit down to make it go up. Your slow tempo would suggest to me that you're more a low ball/sweeper type. Nonetheless, there's equipment out there to help you get closer to what you desire.

 

For sure I'd suggest looking at a weaker shaft, certainly weaker than the Aldila NV. Properties I'd suggest looking at in a shaft:

 

* 85-95 suggested mph swing speed

* high torque rating

* mid/low bend point

* medium to light weight

 

Some specific shafts you might look at are:

 

* XPX Seven (85-95 mph, stiff, mid kick point, 4.7 torque, 68g, $18) - Do not let the 'stiff' label confuse you, this shaft is pretty soft and very affordable. You should have no problem getting this in the air but, on the downside, you may experience a loose shot dispersion.

* XPC4 (85-95 mph, stiff, low kick point, 5.1 torque, 67g, $18) See above, except this thing will really, really launch the ball in the air. Any wayward shots will be exaggerated here and the ball may tend to balloon too.

 

* Aldila NVS (85-95, stiff, mid, 4.4 torque, 57g, $88) A higher end shaft with similar properties as the first two. This shaft is much more consistent and will definately provide a tighter shot pattern. Will get the ball up but will also be a wee bit lower than the others.

 

* Graphite Design YS-6 (85-95, stiff, mid, 5.0, 69g, $45) Another solid high end shaft that will perform similar to the Aldila but has more mass and a heavier hit. Certainly can feel the club thru out the swing with this one, a property many like in controling their ball flight.

 

These are just a few suggestions - there are many others out there. In looking around, I'd definately stay in the 80-95 mph range, go no lower than 4.4 in torque and for sure stay away from anything with a high kick point.

 

I am comfortable with my 7 through wedge so I swing it faster than my driver. I hit my low irons long and straight usually. When I play in a scramble I should only bring my 7 through putter.

 

I only had my driver swing speed measured, not my irons. I didn't want to be an ass and swing harder than I normally do, so I didn't

[Cruzer 1,994]

I only had my driver swing speed measured, not my irons. I didn't want to be an ass and swing harder than I normally do, so I didn't

Nor should you try and swing harder, that only hurts your game in the end. Also, people generally hit the 8,9 & wedges straighter bcoz those clubs generate backspin opposed to side spin.

[jerryskids 6,049]

Maybe you guys can help me.

 

I've got a Big Bertha VFT with a stock Callaway System 60 graphite Firm flex. I swing about 95-100 on the driver, tend to have a low sweeping swing (too much front to back movement, my bane) which causes a generally low flight. I've suspected this shaft is too flexible for me, and I tend to have hook problems that I attribute (maybe) to too much rotation of the club head at impact.

 

The new hybrid I got has a much stiffer shaft and went much straighter, and plenty far.

 

Suggestions?

[swirvenirvin 25]

TM 580XD get it

[Cruzer 1,994]

Maybe you guys can help me.

 

I've got a Big Bertha VFT with a stock Callaway System 60 graphite Firm flex. I swing about 95-100 on the driver, tend to have a low sweeping swing (too much front to back movement, my bane) which causes a generally low flight. I've suspected this shaft is too flexible for me, and I tend to have hook problems that I attribute (maybe) to too much rotation of the club head at impact.

 

The new hybrid I got has a much stiffer shaft and went much straighter, and plenty far.

 

Suggestions?

That particular model of driver was nortorious for hooking the ball - it's reputation was not any better than the old Hawkeye (a.k.a. hookeye). But for sure it sounds like you could benefit from a low bend point shaft. In your particular case, it sounds like you could use stronger variables than jr though. Some I might suggest:

 

* Grafalloy Pro Launch Blue (90-100 mph, low kick point, 4.0 torque, 57g, $56)

* Grafalloy Pro Launch Blue (95-100 mph, low kick point, 2.8 torque, 64g, $56) - Both of these offer a high launch with strong stability for your strength. If you hook these (especially the 2nd one), it's prolly that damn driver head - it's pure voodoo I tell you.

 

* UST HTD Tour Balance (95-105 mph, low kick point, 3.7 torque, 60g, $54) Similar to the top two - actually in between the top two as far as rigidness.

[jerryskids 6,049]

That particular model of driver was nortorious for hooking the ball - it's reputation was not any better than the old Hawkeye (a.k.a. hookeye). But for sure it sounds like you could benefit from a low bend point shaft. In your particular case, it sounds like you could use stronger variables than jr though. Some I might suggest:

 

* Grafalloy Pro Launch Blue (90-100 mph, low kick point, 4.0 torque, 57g, $56)

* Grafalloy Pro Launch Blue (95-100 mph, low kick point, 2.8 torque, 64g, $56) - Both of these offer a high launch with strong stability for your strength. If you hook these (especially the 2nd one), it's prolly that damn driver head - it's pure voodoo I tell you.

 

* UST HTD Tour Balance (95-105 mph, low kick point, 3.7 torque, 60g, $54) Similar to the top two - actually in between the top two as far as rigidness.

Thanks, great info. I didn't know those drivers had a hooking reputation, that explains a lot. It seems very finicky, where small changes in my swing cause dramatic hooks. And I don't play enough to avoid those changes.

 

I mentioned earlier that I got the hybrid as part of a deal for my kids' school auction. With the way this Dual flies, I'm going to see if anyone got an R7 that I can bid on. If not, I'll try one of the above shafts.

 

Thanks again.