spottedowl 1 Posted December 13, 2006 40 minutes... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
the screaming banshee 0 Posted December 13, 2006 It could be a variety of things. If the pilot isn't lighting, is the electrode sparking or not sparking? Is there voltage to the pilot valve? Does he have voltage to the transformer? Is the gas valve defective? Does the pilot oriface need to be cleaned? Is the transformer bad? I'm just a tired HVAC student in the middle of finals so I won't be holding anyones hand tonight but it sounds like a service call is in order. P.S. If you're willing to let the Wife/SO sleep with the service tech I bet you could save a few bucks on the service call. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fireballer 2,384 Posted December 13, 2006 40 minutes... Big Pete, hope you have something to keep you warm tonight. I gotta be at the fire station in about 6 1/2 hours. Good luck, good night. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SUXBNME 1,340 Posted December 13, 2006 It could be a variety of things. If the pilot isn't lighting, is the electrode sparking or not sparking? Is there voltage to the pilot valve? Does he have voltage to the transformer? Is the gas valve defective? Does the pilot oriface need to be cleaned? Is the transformer bad? I'm just a tired HVAC student in the middle of finals so I won't be holding anyones hand tonight but it sounds like a service call is in order. P.S. If you're willing to let the Wife/SO sleep with the service tech I bet you could save a few bucks on the service call. Big Pete doesn't have a wife or an S/O..He focks a different hottie every focking night Someone has to do a Mr. T / Chuck Norris thingie about Big Pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
the screaming banshee 0 Posted December 13, 2006 What brand is it and do you know the model #? I might be able to help tomorrow after I screw up my refrigeration exam. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Big_Pete 0 Posted December 13, 2006 You might need to light it manually with an long match, or one of those long lighters. I'll be around until 10 Pacific. I dont see where to light it though. What brand is it and do you know the model #? I might be able to help tomorrow after I screw up my refrigeration exam. I know the brand is "YORK"... not positive on the model number. Starts with a P though. I have it written down at work. It could be a variety of things. If the pilot isn't lighting, is the electrode sparking or not sparking? Is there voltage to the pilot valve? Does he have voltage to the transformer? Is the gas valve defective? Does the pilot oriface need to be cleaned? Is the transformer bad? I'm just a tired HVAC student in the middle of finals so I won't be holding anyones hand tonight but it sounds like a service call is in order. Well, it says it doesn't have a pilot light. So probably some kind of glow plug It has a blue knob that has "On" on one side and "OFF" on the other, no inbetween, nothing to push up or down... it has power to it, and a gas line straight to it... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
spottedowl 1 Posted December 13, 2006 It could be a variety of things. If the pilot isn't lighting, is the electrode sparking or not sparking? Is there voltage to the pilot valve? Does he have voltage to the transformer? Is the gas valve defective? Does the pilot oriface need to be cleaned? Is the transformer bad? I'm just a tired HVAC student in the middle of finals so I won't be holding anyones hand tonight but it sounds like a service call is in order. P.S. If you're willing to let the Wife/SO sleep with the service tech I bet you could save a few bucks on the service call. Well, some of that doesn't make sense. All of this is a result of a pilot light that is not lit. If the electrode is not lighting, fine, light it manually. Voltage to the transformer is nonsense, Gas valve...Maybe, but not likely, Oriface... Not likely, but not unheard of. You are working from the back end of the problem and don't understand troubleshooting techniques. The best advice I can give you is...Look at what you have in front of you and start from the bottom. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Big_Pete 0 Posted December 13, 2006 Well, some of that doesn't make sense. All of this is a result of a pilot light that is not lit. If the electrode is not lighting, fine, light it manually. Voltage to the transformer is nonsense, Gas valve...Maybe, but not likely, Oriface... Not likely, but not unheard of. You are working from the back end of the problem and don't understand troubleshooting techniques. The best advice I can give you is...Look at what you have in front of you and start from the bottom. but I dont see a pilot light. It's from that box... so where would I be putting the flame? it looks pretty enclosed? I even just changed the filter. It was pretty focking dirty! I know there is power to the thing, cause I can hear the transformer getting power (the buzz it makes) and the fan will kick on if I turn the thermostat fan to the "on" position... just no heat comes out that way! The sticker on the inside of the furnace cover does say it doesn't have a pilot light... I just dont have a few hundred dollars laying around to have a furnace guy come out and say "yeah, umm, try this" and then kick the focker and have it fire up! or pull out a blowtorch and just fry everything till something lights up (hell, I got a blow torch) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
spottedowl 1 Posted December 13, 2006 but I dont see a pilot light. It's from that box... so where would I be putting the flame? it looks pretty enclosed? Okay, turn the gas "ON" It must push in so you can light the pilot. The pilot light will be a small metal tube running from the valve into the burner and there will be a shield around it. The pilot will be the piece standing up. You will need to reach inside quite far to light it. If that tube is bad it won't light. That is called the Thermocouple. You can pick a new one up from Home Depot for about 12 bucks, if not cheaper. It only requires a small crescent wrench to replace. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Big_Pete 0 Posted December 13, 2006 Okay, turn the gas "ON" It must push in so you can light the pilot. The pilot light will be a small metal tube running from the valve into the burner and there will be a shield around it. The pilot will be the piece standing up. You will need to reach inside quite far to light it. If that tube is bad it won't light. That is called the Thermocouple. You can pick a new one up from Home Depot for about 12 bucks, if not cheaper. It only requires a small crescent wrench to replace. It doesn't push in. That's the first thing I tried when I got home. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
spottedowl 1 Posted December 13, 2006 Buy me a plane ticket and I'll have it fixed in no time. Sorry, I need to hit the hay. Just build yourself a snow cave to stay out of the weather. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Big_Pete 0 Posted December 13, 2006 Buy me a plane ticket and I'll have it fixed in no time. Sorry, I need to hit the hay. Just build yourself a snow cave to stay out of the weather. Thanks for your help bud. I"ll call someone and local and see what their opinion is.. maybe they wont be a douche and refuse to help me over the phone I looked again, and the gas line goes straight into that box type thing and then a pipe straight into the jets that fire... there is a nob, but you need a tool as it's solid metal with a hollow inside to adjust the pilot, but thats all it is... it isn't an actual pilot.. just something to adjust the internal pilot I guess hopefully it's an easy/cheap fix, cause I seriously dont have any money. I'm barely scraping by. Hell, even chicks buy me food these days. As well as some of the local restaurants.. I just trade them stuff for their girlfriends for food so that I can save up as much money as I can. 54° inside Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TommyGavin 789 Posted December 13, 2006 Not only is the poosay colder there, they are dumber and they do like animal house/John Belushi DEAD to me DEAD to me Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Big_Pete 0 Posted December 13, 2006 and they do like animal house/John Belushi DEAD to me DEAD to me c'mon, cut a n1gga some slack! any suggestions for my furnace? it's focking freezing in here Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thedanzone 2 Posted December 13, 2006 My furnace was acting the same way a couple years ago. My problem was that the heat sensor was had some oxidation built up on it. Since it was dirty it was not able to detect the temperature so it was not turning on. It should be held on by a single screw. Take that bad boy out, wipe it down with some steel wool to clean the oxidation off it and you should be in business. I'm not sure if 'heat sensor' is the proper name for it though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Big_Pete 0 Posted December 13, 2006 My furnace was acting the same way a couple years ago. My problem was that the heat sensor was had some oxidation built up on it. Since it was dirty it was not able to detect the temperature so it was not turning on. It should be held on by a single screw. Take that bad boy out, wipe it down with some steel wool to clean the oxidation off it and you should be in business. I'm not sure if 'heat sensor' is the proper name for it though. like on the thermostat? cause the thermostat is only about 3 months old.. I got the model# for that guy who asked... Make:York Model: P1UKD14N08001A Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mark Buffington 3 Posted December 13, 2006 My furnace was acting the same way a couple years ago. My problem was that the heat sensor was had some oxidation built up on it. Since it was dirty it was not able to detect the temperature so it was not turning on. It should be held on by a single screw. Take that bad boy out, wipe it down with some steel wool to clean the oxidation off it and you should be in business. I'm not sure if 'heat sensor' is the proper name for it though. what you might be thinking of is a high-limit switch. Since his filter was filthy, it causes the heat exchanger to get to hot and them shut the unti down. It could also be a defective glow coil instead of an electric pilot light. Also, fireballer was right about the thermocouple. The thermocouple, shuts down the gas supply if the pilot mechanism is defective. The pilot unit may be funtional, but the termocouple may be providing an false negative. Call a profesional before you blow yourself up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
the screaming banshee 0 Posted December 14, 2006 A couple of things for you, 1) Your thermostat is probably just fine but there could be a problem with it or the wiring to it.. 2) This forum is better suited to ask furnace questions. This link is for a similar problam a homeowner was having with his furnace. 3) The following link is for reference only. You're better off and safer having a pro work on your furnace unless you're VERY comfprtable working around this type of equipment. Problem: Your furnace will not ignite the gas to produce heat for your home. When a furnace has a bad ignitor what I see most of the time is the following sequence of operation: 1. Thermostat calls for heat. 2. Draft inducer motor starts. 3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and closes. 4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back off and on again. Solution: Sorry, but you need to purchase and install a new ignitor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SUXBNME 1,340 Posted December 14, 2006 you blow yourself up. That's the general idea Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
the screaming banshee 0 Posted December 14, 2006 Well, some of that doesn't make sense. All of this is a result of a pilot light that is not lit. If the electrode is not lighting, fine, light it manually. Voltage to the transformer is nonsense, Gas valve...Maybe, but not likely, Oriface... Not likely, but not unheard of. You are working from the back end of the problem and don't understand troubleshooting techniques. The best advice I can give you is...Look at what you have in front of you and start from the bottom. I was tired last night and put to much info into one jumbled paragraph. I'm not surprised it read funny. But yes, the transformer can give you problems. You're right, my troubleshooting does need work but I certainly know where to get the right information and I trust my reference material. Sorry but this explanation is from a trouble shooting book of mine and will be a bit lengthy. Don't try repairing your furnace on your own unless it's for something VERY simple. For reference ONLY, "If the pilot/spark ignition won't light, check to see if the electrode is sparking. If it's sparking, check the voltage at the pilot valve. If voltage isn't present at the PV, there is a problem in the relight control module. If the electrode is sparking & there is sufficient voltage at the PV, check the gas supply at the inlet of the gas valve. If the inlet gas supply is sufficient, check the outlet leading to the pilot. If there is gas at the outlet, clean the pilot orifice. If there is no gas at the pilot outlet, the problem is in the gas valve. If the pilot will not light & the electrode isn’t sparking, check the voltage at the transformer secondary “R” connection. If 24V isn’t present at the “R” connection, check the voltage at the power supply. If there is 120V at the power supply, check the voltage at the transformer primary. If low, or no voltage is present, the problem is in the door switch. If normal voltage is present, the problem is in the transformer. If 24V is present at the “R” connection, check the voltage at the “W” connection. Low or no voltage would indicate a problem in the thermostat (or the wiring). If normal voltage is present at the “W” connection, check the voltage at the relight control module. Low voltage indicates burnt contacts in the limit control. No voltage means the limit is open." In other words, contact a pro and have a qualified service tech repair the furnace. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swirvenirvin 25 Posted December 14, 2006 Cmon guys, this has got to be a joke. Doesn't anyone find it just the tad bit ironic, that Big Pete, doesn't know how to get the furnace warmed up? Seriously. Yeah no man could be that stupid Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Big_Pete 0 Posted December 14, 2006 I will call around tomorrow and see how much a new ignition switch costs... cause that sounds fairly accurate. We turn the power off, wait 5 mins. Turn it back on, hear the transformer click on after about a 5 second pause. Hear it wanting to light, but nothing lights... the fan will turn if we turn the thermostat to "fan on" , but no heat cause naturally the gas isn't burning... any idea how much one of these costs? TIA Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
