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Any of you geeks have a new roof put on lately?

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Just the shingles actually. You have a professional do it or you do it yourself? Ball-park figure for having a professional doing it? Square footage of your home approximately?

 

TIA

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The hurricanes of '04 & '05 have caused a shortage of roofing materials and caused a spike in material costs. Good luck.

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The hurricanes of '04 & '05 have caused a shortage of roofing materials and caused a spike in material costs. Good luck.

 

Fock. I hadn't thought of that. :doublethumbsup:

Maybe I'll just throw a big tarp over my house.

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I did one yesterday after work.

 

how much?

how big?

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Maybe I'll just throw a big tarp over my house.

 

There's a lot of folks down here (So. FL) who still have the blue tarps on their roofs after Wilma, which hit October 24, 2005. Not enough contractors, not enough supplies. The problem is also compounded by the fact that a lot of the materials are/were produced in the Gulf Coast region battered by Katrina.

 

Probably one of the more expensive options, but also the most durable is metal roofing. Might be worth checking out.

 

ETA: My sister had here roof replaced after Wilma; didn't need it as it could have been repaired, but she got some insurance $$$ for it. She has a small (1800 sqft) house. It cost $7.5k but it was done by a friend of the family.

 

My guess is you should budget at least $10k for shingle, $20k+ for barrel tiles for a avg. 3/2 home.

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There's a lot of folks down here (So. FL) who still have the blue tarps on their roofs after Wilma, which hit October 24, 2005. Not enough contractors, not enough supplies. The problem is also compounded by the fact that a lot of the materials are/were produced in the Gulf Coast region battered by Katrina.

 

Probably one of the more expensive options, but also the most durable is metal roofing. Might be worth checking out.

 

All I need are the shingles. Thats it. They can't be in short supply can they? Even in the NE?

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I hear that steel roofs kick aZZ,as far as how long they last.You may want to check them out before you decide what to do.

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Fock it, I'm going with the tarp. :headbanger:

Thanks assfaces :huh:

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Just the shingles actually. You have a professional do it or you do it yourself? Ball-park figure for having a professional doing it? Square footage of your home approximately?

 

TIA

 

My home is approximately 3300 square feet. Does that help?

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Fock it, I'm going with the tarp. :headbanger:

Thanks assfaces :huh:

 

Get a few quotes from some reputable contractors. Your town's building department might recommend some names.

 

Unless you have experience, you don't want to re-roof your own home yourself.

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My home is approximately 3300 square feet. Does that help?

 

what'd you pay. roughly?

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Get a few quotes from some reputable contractors. Your town's building department might recommend some names.

 

Unless you have experience, you don't want to re-roof your own home yourself.

 

Yeah, I don't want to do it myself. I'm not very handy like that. I'd fall through it or something.

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Unless you have experience, you don't want to re-roof your own home yourself.

You might go ahead and re-roof somebody else's though.

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Just the shingles actually. You have a professional do it or you do it yourself? Ball-park figure for having a professional doing it? Square footage of your home approximately?

 

TIA

 

If you like doing that sort of stuff around the house, it is really not that big of a deal.

Are you shingling over existing shingles, or ripping the old ones out and re-tarpapering?

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If you like doing that sort of stuff around the house, it is really not that big of a deal.

Are you shingling over existing shingles, or ripping the old ones out and re-tarpapering?

 

Taking old off, putting new on.

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It was about $6,500 to Hurricane Rita-destroyed roof of our 2,262-square-foot house.

 

Also, you better think twice about doing it yourself. You need to get an inspector come to make sure it was done right, and there needs to be a report on that.

 

Otherwise, if your roof blows off and you don't have that report, your insurance company will fock you up the ass and not pay for the roof repair.

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Taking old off, putting new on.

 

Not fun :mad:

 

I'm doing mine later this year when it cools down a bit.

 

I was quoted 10K by a pro, (a little high IMO) but my next door neighbor is a General Contractor, so I will have his help along with paying contractors prices versus retail.

 

Good luck to you, and no mater what anyone tells you, it is O.K. to drink beer on the roof. :o

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Fock, some of these quotes here seem really high. My neighbor who has roughly the same size roof paid about 3 grand for his. But that was like 5 years ago. Couldn't go up that much in 5 focking years could it?

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Go to Lowes/Home Depot, with the dimensions of your house, slope etc. They will quote you the materials you will need for free, including tar paper, starter tin, shingles, nails, nail guns/compressor rental, etc. Once you get that quote, say it's $2000, double it and that's what your labor is (in this example, $4000) for a total job cost of $6000. I don't know the laws in the northeast, but in the midwest you don't need an inspector to inspect your roof after you get done shingling it. Hope this helps.

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Go to Lowes/Home Depot, with the dimensions of your house, slope etc. They will quote you the materials you will need for free, including tar paper, starter tin, shingles, nails, nail guns/compressor rental, etc. Once you get that quote, say it's $2000, double it and that's what your labor is (in this example, $4000) for a total job cost of $6000. I don't know the laws in the northeast, but in the midwest you don't need an inspector to inspect your roof after you get done shingling it. Hope this helps.

 

It does. :banana:

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I dropped $1500 a few years ago on 18 squares (1500 sqft house-12 pitch roof). If you do it yourself go with the newer dimensional shingles over the old 3-tab and it goes up a lot faster. Generally whatever you quote the materials at, just double it and that's about how much you'll pay a contractor to do the job. Looking at 3-5 days strip to new either way.

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i had mine done 2 summers ago. 1000 + sq ft house, 1000$ labor and material.

 

i knew a guy, 10 bucks an hour, i supplied all the tools, lunch every day, and a cold 12 pk at the end of every shift.

 

i guess if you dont know ppl your screwed, but 7 grand for an 1800 sq ft house (because they knew someone) sounds excessive. of course if mechanics make 250$ an hour, (see suxbnme) then maybe roofers should make 400$ an hour.

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It was about $6,500 to Hurricane Rita-destroyed roof of our 2,262-square-foot house.

 

Also, you better think twice about doing it yourself. You need to get an inspector come to make sure it was done right, and there needs to be a report on that.

 

Otherwise, if your roof blows off and you don't have that report, your insurance company will fock you up the ass and not pay for the roof repair.

 

 

Ah, Rusty. If only you knew what you were talking about. As a property claim adjuster, I can tell you I have never fcked a policyholder up the ass. If you choose to do your own repairs, hold on to your materials invoices and take a before and after set of photos and you will be fine.

 

To answer the original question, my 26 square roof just cost me $4900 here in central Indiana.

 

Material prices have increased about 15% in the last year, as someone mentioned before. Best advice I could give on the actual roofing trade itself (as opposed to insurance related roofing/damage identification advice) is to find an old-school guy who will do the roof with hammer and nails instead of nail guns. Improper attachment of shingles with the nail gun causes more roofing problems than anyone would ever guess.

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I would not recommend doing it yourself unless you really feel that you have a good grasp on the procedure. While it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure it out, the average do it your selfer could run into many problems. Point blank it is too much money and to much work to screw it up. Expect to pay $75-150 per square for installation. Even though it seems advantageous to re roof over the existing roof (saving cash on labor for stripping, cleanup, removal and dumpster fees) I do not recommend overlaying the new shingles on top of the old shingles. Especially if you plan to own the home for many years. Why? For starters you are doubling the weight on your roof with two layers. While most homes can handle the weight it can still cause problems down the road. You should also inspect your sheathing/plywood and replace, re nail it as necessary. You can't do that if you don’t strip it. Chimney flashings, eave step flashings and starter tin should all be inspected, again hard to do if the roof is not stripped. Some manufacturers won't honor the warranty on an overlay and in general you will end up with a better finished product when you remove the old shingles.

 

Your best bang for the buck is 25-30 year shingles. The price increase in substantial on 35-40+ year shingles and its debatable if they will even actually last that long. I recommend having a ridge vent installed and the use of ice and water barrier on eaves and vallies. As far as hand banging the nails versus using a roofing gun. It is no contest. Roofing gun wins every time. Rare for a contractor to handbag shingles these days. Just not profitable and adding more unnecessary labor to a very labor intensive job already. A simple air pressure adjustment so your nails are driven flush with the shingle and proper nail location will be sufficient to keep your roof intact up to and beyond the manufacturers wind rating.

 

Any questions? Fire away. I have done more roofing than any one man should.

 

 

Ohh and Owmyfockingbackhurts

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of course if mechanics make 250$ an hour, (see suxbnme) then maybe roofers should make 400$ an hour.

 

Yea. $250 per hour. That's what us grease monkeys make :)

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I would not recommend doing it yourself unless you really feel that you have a good grasp on the procedure. While it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure it out, the average do it your selfer could run into many problems. Point blank it is too much money and to much work to screw it up. Expect to pay $75-150 per square for installation. Even though it seems advantageous to re roof over the existing roof (saving cash on labor for stripping, cleanup, removal and dumpster fees) I do not recommend overlaying the new shingles on top of the old shingles. Especially if you plan to own the home for many years. Why? For starters you are doubling the weight on your roof with two layers. While most homes can handle the weight it can still cause problems down the road. You should also inspect your sheathing/plywood and replace, re nail it as necessary. You can't do that if you don’t strip it. Chimney flashings, eave step flashings and starter tin should all be inspected, again hard to do if the roof is not stripped. Some manufacturers won't honor the warranty on an overlay and in general you will end up with a better finished product when you remove the old shingles.

 

Your best bang for the buck is 25-30 year shingles. The price increase in substantial on 35-40+ year shingles and its debatable if they will even actually last that long. I recommend having a ridge vent installed and the use of ice and water barrier on eaves and vallies. As far as hand banging the nails versus using a roofing gun. It is no contest. Roofing gun wins every time. Rare for a contractor to handbag shingles these days. Just not profitable and adding more unnecessary labor to a very labor intensive job already. A simple air pressure adjustment so your nails are driven flush with the shingle and proper nail location will be sufficient to keep your roof intact up to and beyond the manufacturers wind rating.

 

Any questions? Fire away. I have done more roofing than any one man should.

Ohh and Owmyfockingbackhurts

 

 

All good info. The reason I had recommended finding a hammer & nail contractor instead of nail gun is the problems that tend to occur as guys with nail guns try to nail the shingles on as fast as humanly possible, such as improper spacing, inadequate number of nails, crooked heads, tendency to nail too high, arcing, et cetera. But you are correct that guys who do it the old fashioned way are hard to find nowadays.

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Feb '05. So. Cal., 1400 SQ. FT. house. 40 year shingles, remove old and put on new, 7k.

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I would not recommend doing it yourself unless you really feel that you have a good grasp on the procedure. While it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure it out, the average do it your selfer could run into many problems. Point blank it is too much money and to much work to screw it up. Expect to pay $75-150 per square for installation. Even though it seems advantageous to re roof over the existing roof (saving cash on labor for stripping, cleanup, removal and dumpster fees) I do not recommend overlaying the new shingles on top of the old shingles. Especially if you plan to own the home for many years. Why? For starters you are doubling the weight on your roof with two layers. While most homes can handle the weight it can still cause problems down the road. You should also inspect your sheathing/plywood and replace, re nail it as necessary. You can't do that if you don’t strip it. Chimney flashings, eave step flashings and starter tin should all be inspected, again hard to do if the roof is not stripped. Some manufacturers won't honor the warranty on an overlay and in general you will end up with a better finished product when you remove the old shingles.

 

Your best bang for the buck is 25-30 year shingles. The price increase in substantial on 35-40+ year shingles and its debatable if they will even actually last that long. I recommend having a ridge vent installed and the use of ice and water barrier on eaves and vallies. As far as hand banging the nails versus using a roofing gun. It is no contest. Roofing gun wins every time. Rare for a contractor to handbag shingles these days. Just not profitable and adding more unnecessary labor to a very labor intensive job already. A simple air pressure adjustment so your nails are driven flush with the shingle and proper nail location will be sufficient to keep your roof intact up to and beyond the manufacturers wind rating.

 

Any questions? Fire away. I have done more roofing than any one man should.

Ohh and Owmyfockingbackhurts

 

Do you do any single-ply?

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By single ply you mean? Roll roofing? Torch down?

 

No, I mean PVC,TPO etc. Heat welded laps.White membrane.

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you'll pay about $60-100/SF to have someone else do it, depending on where you live, including tear-off and felt. If you are just talking about shingles, and no damage to the plywood substrate beneath, you will be better off doing it yourself, assuming there's little flashing work, etc. If your existing shingles just look bad, I'd tear them off yourself and replace them. Do not put new over the existing.

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